Days 6 & 7, the final stretch

DAY 6

So for Holly's final full day--we took it easy, rising late and heading into town to see a few more markets. I take Holly by the Central de Abastos, the biggest market in Oaxaca, on the southwest side of town. Everything is sold in Abastos, from pottery, to toaster ovens. It's where you can get the best deals. It's also where you can spot a naked woman walking around (really) and see the edge of some of the poorer neighborhoods in Oaxaca City. So I'll just include some quick shots from the days stroll around town...



I've been trying to get a shot of this sculpture for a while but never seem to have my camera with me. In the end I found it hard to convey how odd it is to wander past an open doorway in the center of town to discover a large bald man's head.

A display of handmade pots baking in the sun.

We almost bought this for you, Uncle John! But then decided you didn't deserve such an elegant gift.

After Abastos we take a walk over to the Iglesia de la Soledad where we plop down in wrought iron chairs painted yellow and white for a bit of nieve. Nieve literally means "snow." But what it is is something between ice cream and a slushy. It comes in a myriad of fruit flavors, or creamy chocolates and cajeta. Holly gets a mango/maracuya combo, I get rose flavor with tamarindo. yum! The perfect treat for a hot day.


As we make our way up to explore the church, there is a big job fair out in front in the Plaza de la Danza. Both of us sort of squint funny at the fact that a giant inflatable Corona bottle finds its home at the job fair as well. I guess that's there as a reminder of what you can do if you don't get the job...?

We cap off the day at Los Pacos, a restaurant that is a favorite of the Corderos. They serve a small sample platter of the six moles they are famous for. You dip a warmed corn tortilla into each, tasting away until you've found your perfect match. Then the waiter informs you of what meat compliments that mole sauce the best. Holly gets the dark classic mole negro, while I order the mole estofado.


We have to practically waddle home, it's so filling. But a good capper of flavors to the day!

DAY 7

It's Holly's last day. She doesn't depart until noon, so we decide to go out for her final Oaxacan meal. The place is Itanoní, a small, almost open air restaurant in Reforma. Everything is freshly made on a comal, based around the simple ingredients and flavors that have been a part of traditional Mexican cooking for centuries. We try a little bit of everything...

Hol's a bit tired from the whole journey, I think. Perhaps she's daydreaming of her bed at home that doesn't deflate all during the night...

A hierba santa leaf, folded into fresh corn masa, then rolled into a taco. Fresh lemon iced tea. A triangle-shaped corn pocket filled with Chiapaneco cream and beans. A warmed tortilla flute filled with marinated pork meat and cheese. And the grand finale to all this delicious food is my new favorite drink of all time--lemonade mixed with hierba santa--it's almost like a mint lemonade--but a bit crisper, and less sweet.

The best drink EVER!

The inferior, but still delicious, lemon iced tea.

We end up in a bit of a mad rush to the airport. The ticket counter dude says Holly cannot board; it's too late. But "todo se puede" in México, people. All I need to say is, "really?" And he starts processing her ticket to board. Weird. A quick hug goodbye, and she's off for a day-long ride home.

It was a splendid visit! Holly will have to give those of you in Chicago your own personal update.