Entomatadas, dusted jícama, hot chocolate, oh my!

DAY 5

We awake early because we've got an 8 o'clock pick-up time. We're heading out to Tlacolula with the Cordero's. It's market day in the small pueblo about 30 minutes east of town. Vendors from all over the area gather to sell their wares from carts and stalls circling 'round the town's Church.

Rafael has been coming to Tlacolula since he was a boy. His aunt and uncle owned a hectare of land, he tells me. Inside the walls of their large property the kids frolicked all day without the parents having to fear for them getting into too much trouble. Rafael's mom even learned to drive within the property--nothing to bump into! Thus, Rafael leads us through the market streets, the closed-in bread stalls, the church grounds--until we arrive at a small indoor restaurant. He's been frequenting this place for years.

A woman appears with a tray of fresh-squeezed juice; it turns out she's Rafael's cousin. There are no menus here. The far end of the restaurant holds numerous clay cazuelas (pots) each carrying a different sauce. The Cordero's already know what they want. But they ask the waitress to list off the staples so Holly and I can select. Holly gets a hot bowl of Oaxacan hot chocolate (rich and creamy, made with almonds, sugar and cinnamon); I order a cup of Atole. Azucena spreads out the bread we just purchased at the market on the table to munch on as we wait. We don't wait long. My enfrijoladas arrive, and Holly's entomatadas. They are both topped with lettuce, sliced radishes and lime. Holly comments on how fresh the ingredients are. "So many flavors!" she exclaims.

After breakfast (which cost about $4 a person! Rafael kindly treats us) we head out to explore the market a bit. Holly finds a nice deal on a woven bag--"perfect for her laptop," the vendor nudges. Alejandro and I goof around nearby--neither of us interested in a purse. I pass this stand that sells jícama on sticks, that is then dusted in your choice of chile salt. I take a taste of the dark red--oácala (as they would say "gross").

We eventually wind back towards the parked cars. Azucena is toting her basket filled with foodstuffs (fresh herbs, bread, chorizo), and Holly's got her handicrafts.

Later that night we hop a cab uphill to the Hotel Victoria. Their open air café has a beautiful view of Oaxaca's skyline. Holly and I enjoy an evening drink and a light bite--we even continue our earlier game of gin rummy! (By the way, Holly--the final score is Blonde Butt 970, Megora 1175. Little sister dominates!)


It's a breezy, perfect cap to a lovely day.