A view, some meat, and a few pillowcase blouses

DAY 2

We awake early out of necessity. As Holly discovers, even if one doesn't want to rise at 7:30 AM--the dudes who deliver gas and water and sharpen your knives will make you get up early, as the whistles, music and shouts that arise from their delivery trucks make it nearly impossible NOT to shake sleep off for the day ahead. We take a hike up behind my house to the top of the Cerro de Fortín. It's a trek, for sure. But the view of the city can't be beat for a way to orient yourself. A large statue of Bénito Juárez, the country's first president (and a Oaxacan!) points the direction to...um...Mexico City, I'm guessing. Gotta look that up!


We hike even further up to the observatory, and to the trails that wind back to the other side of the hill. The sun's rising now, though, so we make our way back downhill, taking the Escalera de Fortín (basically a long stone stairway that makes almost the whole length of the hillside). A quick stop off at Juguita Lupita, my favorite place for smoothies and fresh juice in the city. It's nestles inside a city market. Lupita and Jerry run the place--a really kind couple who quickly slosh fruit and veggie juices into plastic bags with straws for us to drink on our walk back to my house.

After showers and a bit of breakfast, we head out to explore. Here are some pictures of our journey. A lot of these are from Holly's camera. So you'll get a look at Oaxaca through her eyes...

Here's Pochote, a plot of land that was bought by famous Mexican artist, Francisco Toledo, then transformed into this lovely garden. It houses an organic farmer's market every Friday and Saturday, as well as an art film cinema every day but Monday.

I defy even cameras to capture my cheetah-quick movements!

We take a stroll past Santo Domingo again, this time in daylight. Impressive, eh?


Then we head further downtown, giving Holly a taste of the streets, the colors, the orientation of the city. We head south and west of the Zócalo to two of the bigger indoor markets, Mercado de Juárez and Mercado de 20 de Noviembre. One carries foodstuffs.

Mmmm, meat!

The other houses textiles, woodwork, leather work--all of the local artesanías. Holly gets a few little things, and we continue on. Take a look!

This is a small craft market called El MARO, which is a collective formed by women from all around the valley of Oaxaca who bring their wares to this central market on 5 de Mayo street to sell to tourist and locals, alike. Each room is dedicated to a different craft, alebrijes (little carved wooden animals colorfully streaked in paint), huipiles (woven dresses), black and green pottery, rugs and jewelry. Holly and I both snag some good buys here. I won't spoil the surprise for those of you lucky enough to get gifts from my big sister (I guess this really sucks for those who get nothing--you know, to know that she got someone something, it just wasn't you.) :) I finally find a locally-made blouse that isn't in the shape of a house. Awesome. Most of the blouses here are boxy and not fitted at all. It's charming on local women. But on us güeritas (whiteys) it's just looks like you're wearing a pillow case. Seriously.

Goodbye, Day 2!